3 Show Notes

00:46 ‘The Devil wears Prada’ - lumpy blue sweater scene

01:27 The African Fashion Research Institute (AFRI)

01:33 The Vogue Business 100 Innovators: Next-gen entrepreneurs and agitators

02:52 Lesiba Mabitsela

12:53 The identity politics of wax print. - a fascinating insight into Dutch wax print’s political history. And what looks like a fantastic film, here's the trailer for the Wax Print film

13:53 LISOF is now known as Stadio Higher Education

17:23 Malick Sidibé (1936-2016) was a Malian photographer who was noted for his black-and-white studies of popular culture in the 1960s in Bamako, Mali. The Archive of Malian Photography hosts 14,309 scanned negatives and corresponding metadata from the archives of Malick Sidibé. This figure represents about 10% of his complete archive.

17:24 James Barnor is a Ghanain photographer. His quote on his foundation's website is probably more relevant now than it ever was: ‘I came across a magazine with an inscription that said, “A civilization flourishes when men plant trees under which they themselves never sit.” But it’s not only plants – putting something in somebody’s life, a young person’s life, is the same as planting a tree that you will not cut and sell. That has helped me a lot in my work. Sometimes the more you give, the more you get. That’s why I’m still going at 90!’

18:40 Technically Model C schools don't exist as a separate category but the term was used to denote a former whites only school that is government-funded, however they are administered and largely funded by the parent body.

19:00 SA Fashion Week first began in 1997 by Lucilla Booyzen. Download its 21 years of SA Fashion Week booklet. From the intro: 'In August 1997, in a purpose-designed white marquee in what is now Mandela Square, the heart of Johannesburg’s high-powered new commercial hub, South African Fashion Week rolled out the black carpet and announced itself open for business.'

20:03 Wanda Lephoto 'explores a notion of luxury dress merging African cultures, traditions, identities and approaches with global nuances to form new propositions for representation'.

20:06 Rich Mnisi is 'a contemporary, multi-disciplinary brand based in Johannesburg, South Africa, founded by Mnisi in 2015'.

20:08 Thebe Magugu is 'a luxury South African brand'. Worth a watch at the bottom of his home page: a short doccie, 'Discard Theory'' which he filmed of Dunusa, the street in downtown Joburg where dumped clothes from the U.S. and Europe are sold for a song.

20:10 Superella is run by self-defined 'clothes maker' (not fashion designer) Ella Buter and sells 'easy, free and comfortable layers. Quality clothes that last for years and years. Small production runs. Using the very best natural fabrics'

20:14 Roman Handt is 'a fashion designer / textile scientist'

22:56 Drum magazine was established in the 1950s and 'became an important platform for a new generation of writers and photographers who changed the way Black people were represented in society'.

22:57 Stoned Cherrie began in 2000 and became one of South Africa's most award-winning designer brands, through the use of bespoke textiles and t-shirts emblazoned with political and cultural South African icons

23:06 Black Coffee is the label of South African designer Jacques van der Watt and was founded in 1998

23:51 loxion kulca (a hybrid slang term for location (township) + culture) is a South African streetwear brand co-founded by Wandi Nzimande (who died of COVID in 2021 ) and Sechaba Mogale

24:32 The Space is a retail and online store that sells garments by well-known and lesser known South African designers. They are 'all about local fashion and accessories created by African designers, locally made and distributed'.

24:39 YDE is the Young Designers Emporium, a retailer providing emerging South African designers with an established platform to sell

25:06 Fashion Cities Africa was an exhibition held in Brighton Museum, England, from 30 April 2016 to January 2017. It was 'the first major UK exhibition dedicated to contemporary African fashion'.

25:42 Erica de Greef's PhD thesis 'Sartorial Disruptions'

27:05 Edward Enninful stepped down as British Vogue's editor-in-chief in February 2024 but will stay on at Condé Nast to become Vogue’s global creative and cultural adviser.

28:30 Iziko Museums of South Africa was formed in 1999 and now operates 11 national museums , a planetarium, the social history centre, 3 subject specific libraries and the SAS Somerset, a boom defence

ship. It is the oldest museum in southern Africa, and together, all affiliated museums contain about 2.26 million artefacts.

30:27 An ibheshu (an apron covering the buttocks) is made of calf skin and is knee length for young men and calf length for older men

31:36 Mode Museum, MoMu, is Antwerps's fashion museum founded in 2002. + ‘Beyond Desire’ was an exhibition that ran from February to August 2005 and examined the way in which African and Western cultures influenced each other

32:42 History of Museum Africa

34:00 The Bernberg Museum of costume was situated on Jan Smuts Avenu near the Johannesburg Zoo. It was demolished to make way for the Johannesburg Holocaust and Genocide Centre

35:22 The Sartists are a 'multidisciplinary collective made up of Andile Buka, Kabelo Kungwane, Wanda Lephoto and Xzavier Zulu who are seeking to challenge insular notions about blackness with a documentary approach to style and identity'.

35:34 Santu Mofokeng (1956 - 2020) was a prolific and well-known news and documentary photographer. The Black Photo Album was a collection of private photographs commissioned by urban black working- and middle-class families between 1890 and 1950. In this work, Mofokeng analyses the sensibilities, aspirations and self-image of the black population and its desire for representation and social recognition in times of colonial rule and suppression.

38:21 Rhodes Must Fall. Rhodes Must Fall is a protest movement that began on 9 March 2015, originally directed against a statue of British Imperialist Cecil Rhodes at the University of Cape Town in South Africa. The campaign for the statue's removal received global attention and led to a wider movement to decolonise education, by inspiring the emergence of allied student movements at other universities across the world.

39:46 Nelson Mandela's sartorial choices, including a photo of him in the beaded collar (and what few people know: a bedspread draped across his torso - he was in hiding, with nothing else at hand)

40:02 Winnie Mandela - photo of Winnie during the Rivonia Trial, in a black dress with the same beaded collar worn by Nelson Mandela as described in the photo above.

40:13 Iconic photo of a young Miriam Makeba on front cover of Drum magazine, by Jürgen Schadeberg

41:35 Zeitz Mocaa : 21 years: Making Histories with South African Fashion Week

42:02 Curating fashion as decolonial practice: MBlaselo and a Politics of Remembering, Erica de Greef

48:01 The International Fashion Showcase 2019

48:52 Ami Doshi Shah, Kenya

48:56 Cedric Mizero, Rwanda

53:01 The Fold Glossary

53:42 Bark cloth

54:51 Isidwaba

55:54 History of the Iqhiya

01:01:01 The Global Fashioning Assembly

01:02:56 Rolando Vasquez